Cuba 2020

On Thursday 5th March eight clients/friends boarded a flight from Gatwick to Havana, much earlier than usual, but this was a great deal, as it would mean that our arrival would enable the travel to our fishing venue would be carried out in daylight for a change, and we would be able to get a snack and beer on our arrival.  The flight was about ten hours, and we approached Havana from a most unusual angle, but soon were on the ground.

Customs checks as ever were slow and even those who travelled in the more expensive parts of the plane had a long wait.  It was interesting that on our arrival in the customs hall, we were all “shot” by a thermal imaging camera, which we guessed, was to do with having our temperatures checked in case we arrived in Cuba with Covid-19.

Eventually I was through to baggage reclaim, which took another age, but I met several of my group at this stage, and then out into the meeting hall.  There to greet us were Felipe and Lazaro.  It was fantastic to see our Cuban friends again.  We all visited the money exchange kiosks (I actually asked Mike to exchange mine as I went off to buy some beers for the trip to Caleton).

This was when I experienced my first surprise of the holiday.  No beer! Due to the embargo on trade in Cuba, fuel was in short supply and so, although there was plenty of beer being brewed, transport to distribute it was difficult.  I had to settle on a few colas, orange drinks and water.  We stopped several times on the way to Caleton, but, it was ages into the journey before we found a bar that had beer!

Our arrival at Casa Nova Vida was most welcome, and we were treated like family, which I feel I am.  The group were introduced, shown to their rooms and a while later returned to the veranda for a decent cold beer and snack.  A reasonably early night was taken and in no time, we were back at the tables for breakfast.

The group comprised two newcomers – Larry and Kevin, three first time returners – John, Steve and Martyn, and regulars, Simon, Mike and Andrew.  I must say that as the week unfolded I cannot remember any cross words between any of them and organisation was really easy.  To say they were a pleasure to work with is an understatement!

All fished Las Salinas first day and every angler had a great start to the trip.  Simon recorded a huge number of fish, whilst everyone else had at least five or more bonefish.  The rum was good that first fishing evening….

Day two was building towards the wind we were to get on day three and so catches were down somewhat, but, our first tarpon of the trip was caught by John.  Kevin also managed to land a decent barracuda.

We all struggled on day three, and at least two of the bonefish boats ended up just trolling to see what could be persuaded to take a fly.  The guys who went to the river had a real struggle too, and only Simon managed to land a tarpon, though other were hooked.

Day four saw Steve and Martyn on the river, where Steve had a tarpon of around one hundred pounds and Martyn a baby one.  John had two more tarpon out on the reef.  The rest of the group had a mixture of success, but Andrew was “top dog” that day.

On the day off I took a few of the group to a lovely garden in the village where the owner puts out feeders for the birds.  It is quite some paradise for many species.  We were treated to great views of the smallest bird in the world – the Bee Hummingbird along with many other species endemic to this part of Cuba.

In the afternoon we ordered taxis to take us to the limestone swimming hole – the one connected to the sea via underground river, where several of the group swam, and then we hopped over the road and did some snorkelling in the sea.  This area is quite famous for its scuba-diving.  It was a great way to spend a day off, and I am sure that all of the group really managed to recharge batteries!

The remaining days flew past as they always do on these trips.  The fishing remained excellent and although one or two of the group didn’t catch vast numbers, the quality of the fish was fantastic.  I am certain that everyone in the group topped six pounds for bonefish, and there were some splendid “other” species caught, including some large jacks and snappers, barracuda and tarpon.

A great ten days came to an end and I escorted the group to the airport for their flight home and awaited the new group, with Juan Carlos as my “assistant”.  It was not a quiet wait!

The second group contained Crooky, back for his tenth trip, James, on his second with me to fish Las Salinas, Steve, his first with me but second to this venue, and Rob, who had not visited this area before.  The drop-off and pick-up worked really well and soon we were heading back to the new Lodge at Playa Larga.  The rooms were great – I shared one with Crooky, and the others had singles.  They were spacious, had good air-conditioning, decent fridge and were generally well equipped.  Though, as with many places in Cuba, the showers were the let down.

I filled the group in about how fishing had been on the drive, and on arrival at the lodge, Felipe and Lazaro met us to go for a meal.  The lads were just about able to stay awake for this, but took little to persuade them to an early night.

So, the second group set off on their first day fully prepared for plenty of fish and duly responded with loads!  Steve, as he carried on every day had a “rake” of fish, Rob plenty and Crooky and James enough to enjoy their days.  This was the pattern for the six days fishing.  Overall the fishing side of this second week was fantastic, but, the Lodge presented problems, which worsened as the time went on.  Showers became almost useless and we were all finding going out to a different restaurant each night a bit tiring, so, when on the fourth day we arrived back to find NO water in the resort at all, we were not in the least disappointed to find that Felipe was happy to transfer us to Casa Nova Vida and our “family” – Noraida, Alejandro, Raul and Islene.  We enjoyed the home comforts much more with our “family” in Cuba.

This second group managed to catch an average of ten bonefish a day, and, could have caught many more had all of the group fished as hard as Steve.  The fishing was really the best in all of the years that I have fished there and all (of both groups) had a great experience.  The boats are fantastic and the guides are really wonderful.  It is also good to see that Felipe and the company are introducing some “new blood”.  Gavi worked with us many of the days and was fantastic.  The anglers who went with him really enjoyed his manner and general way of guiding.  He is undoubtedly a great asset to Las Salinas.  Not to detract from the regulars, whom we love… Juan Carlos, Julio, Machito, Lazaro, Manolo, Roberto and of course Felipe.

I didn’t go to the river in the whole of the two sessions, and none of the second group were especially interested in that aspect.  So, I cannot comment too much.  But, I will say that the size of tarpon running this year was huge – in some ways too large for the gear that we take, expecting to catch “baby” tarpon.

Thanks to all the Cuban people who made our stay so great – the guides, the hotel workers, chefs, cooks, drivers, bar people and organisers.  Lazaro, as manager in the resort was as before a delight to work with.

Thanks also to Aime who organises it all from Miami.

I am so hopeful that this Coronavirus clears up in order to allow us a trip to Cuba again next year.  I have a provisional booking for March 2021.  Fingers crossed!